Chikankari is a fine and intricate embroidery done by white untwisted yarn on muslins. The word Chikan appears to have had its origin in Persia, being derivative of ‘chakin’ or ‘chakeen’, meaning the rendering of delicate patterns on fabric. Folklore attributes the origin of Chikankari to Queen Noor Jehan, Mughal Emperor Jehangir’s wife, who, inspired by Turkish embroidery, introduced this needlework to India.

The stitches employed in Chikankari are unique and can be divided into three categories: Flat stitches, which are delicate and subtle; Embossed stitches which are highlighted from the fabric surface, and Jali work where the fabric is broken into holes by ‘teasing’ the warp and weft yarns and holding them in position by small stitches, to give it a delicate net effect.